The 1997 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a much more sensual, giving wine. Sumptuous, bold and racy to the core, the 1997 is every bit as alluring as it has always been. I have not seen the 1997 ever really close down since it was bottled. Rather, the 1997 has always been a Barolo of pure and total seduction, as it is tonight.
VM98October 2017
The 1997 Barolo Riserva Monfortino might be considered Giovanni Conterno’s monument, the greatest ever made in a series which goes back all the way to the 1950s. Enormously full and ripe, layered and textured with a richness which is almost indescribable, it truly has it all, the rose petals, tar, and licorice of the nose, the succulent density of the flavors, the endless finish which rises to a crescendo of sensual authority. Strangely enough, it is already approachable, even if it will undoubtedly be good for another quarter of a century. A last piece of good news is that the 1996 version of this wine, a work of art which seemed hewn out of granite, is finally beginning to soften, open up, and show its austere magnificence. Unlike the 1997, it is a wine I would not touch for another ten years but, as in the fable of the tortoise and the hare, it is entirely possible that the former beast will win the race.
WA98August 2005
The standard-bearer for Barolo. Medium-dark ruby-garnet. Rose petals, mushroom and slightly cooked red fruit. Some earth. Full-bodied, with big, caressing tannins. This is mouthfilling. Touches all of your taste buds. Complex flavors of plum, orange peel and chocolate. Very long. Why wait?--1997 Italian blind retrospective
WS96